Entering into the world of archery can be overwhelming. Initially, there are a few decisions that need to be made that will shape your archery journey. This guide will assist you in the decision making process. It covers the many disciplines of archery, bows and accessories, arrow components, and how to speed up the learning process. First off all, we’ll start with choosing an archery discipline…
Step 1. Choose a discipline
Before you run out and purchase a bow, you need to make sure that it will suit your chosen archery discipline. It’s likely that you already know which one you want to participate in. If that’s not the case, don’t stress. We’ve listed a basic outline of each one below.
Target archery
A competition format that involves shooting arrows at paper targets. These targets are set up at varying distances, with points scored based on how close the arrow gets to the centre of the target (bullseye).
Field archery
Similar to target archery. However, competitions are performed in wooded areas and over rough terrain.
3D Archery
A competition format that places the archer in simulated hunting scenarios. This allows the archer to gain confidence and proficiency before pursuing real animals (if desired). As the name suggests, 3D foam targets are used instead of paper. Points are scored based on how close your arrow lands to the kill zone.
Hunting
Hunting with a bow. Minimum draw weight requirements apply when hunting larger game animals. Your state hunting agency will supply this information.
Bow fishing
Fishing with a bow. A specialised arrow is attached to a bow-mounted fishing reel. As with hunting above, minimum draw weight requirements apply. Your state fishing agency will supply this information.
NOTE: The rules and regulations for hunting and bow fishing vary between each state. This includes the species of animal that you are legally able to hunt, where you can hunt them, and may include additional licencing requirements. Generally speaking, native Australian animals are not legal to hunt. Large fines and prosecution may apply.
Step 2. Select a bow
So you’ve decided on your archery discipline. It’s now time to purchase your first bow. Your only limitation is your budget, but keep in mind that the benefit that top-of-the-line gear provides isn’t linear. A $2000 bow will be nice, but it won’t be twice as good as a $1000 bow. It all comes down to the archer’s level of skill.
Traditional (trad)
Also referred to as a longbow, a traditional bow is a single-piece design that is made from wood. Think classic Robin Hood. It cannot be taken apart for easier transportation, nor does it come with any of the bells and whistles. That means no sights, no arrow rest, and no mechanical release aid. Instead, the arrow is shot instinctively – using the archer’s knowledge, muscle memory, and base instincts. These bows are used in traditional archery competitions and are the preferred choice for “purist hunters”, who want the most challenging hunting experience.
Recurve
The modern version of the longbow. Recurve bows consist of a hand-held “riser” section and two flexible limbs. Due to their modular design, these bows can be taken apart for easier transportation. With the exception of a release aid and peep sight, all other accessories may be used on these bows. Conversely, they can also be stripped down and used as a “barebow” setup, which functions like a traditional bow. Recurve bows are suited to all archery activities except where club or competition rules exclude them.
Compound
High-performance bows that utilize cables and cams to increase mechanical advantage. This achieves two things. First of all, it improves your arrow speed. Secondly, when the bowstring is pulled back to full draw, only a fraction of the bow’s total draw weight is held by the archer. Known as “let off”, this reduction in weight reduces the fatigue on your body and allows for a more accurate shot. Compound bows are suited to all archery activities except where club or competition rules exclude them.
Step 3. Pick your accessories
The performance parts of your bow package. Better quality parts will improve your performance, but you’ll need to spend the time fine-tuning it to set yourself apart from your competition.
Sights
The mechanism used for aiming a bow. Sight selection is chosen based upon the archer’s personal preferences, but may be restricted based upon competition rules. Most modern sights utilise coloured fiberoptic pins. When exposed to even the dimmest of light, the tips of these pins glow. This allows for rapid target acquisition in low-light areas. As previously mentioned, traditional and “barebow” archers do not use a sight to aim.
Single and multi-pin fixed sights
The standard sights used in archery. Each fiberoptic pin is set to allow for consistent shot placement at a predetermined range. Cheaper sights may not have a protective cage around the sight pins, so take care when placing your bow on the ground.
Adjustable single pin
A single-pin sight with an adjustable knob. As the knob is turned, the sight moves up or down to adjust your distance. Once properly adjusted, a sticker is placed on the side to allow the user to determine an accurate range setting.
One of the more popular models is the Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL.
Peep sights
A rear sight that is tied into your compound bow string. To aim, the archer looks through the peep sight and lines it up with their primary sight (as discussed above). Peep sights come in two forms; a tube model (tied to your internal cable) or a self-aligning (tubeless) model. Due to the perishable nature of the rubber tubes, I would recommend purchasing a self-aligning peep sight.
Arrow rests
The front supporting surface for your arrow. Many new archers consider an arrow rest to be a good place to cut corners financially, but it’s not. You will enjoy far greater success in archery if you aim at the $100 mark (minimum). A quality rest will provide you with a consistent aiming point and stable flight characteristics.
Off the knuckle
A primitive archery technique for use with a traditional bow. The arrow sits between the upper area of your knuckle and the edge of the bow. A slight tilt (or “cant”) may be applied to open up the sight picture and improve your aim. In order to avoid splinters, many archers choose to apply protective materials to their hands. Examples of this include medical tape or gloves.
Off the shelf
While not really an arrow rest per se, it’s worth mentioning for those who are interested in using a recurve bow for “barebow” archery. The arrow is placed on the flat section of the riser (above the grip). Many archers choose to add an adhesive pad to this area to quieten the shot and reduce arrow friction. These pads range from cheap DIY fixes such as the softer side of Velcro, to more expensive materials including leather, or animal hair. If shooting from the shelf, it’s recommended that you use an arrow with feathers to improve arrow stability.
Stick on
A plastic adhesive patch that sticks to the vertical wall of the riser. Once attached, a small notch is bent outwards to act as the arrow rest. These arrow rests are designed for low-poundage youth bows.
Screw in – “leaf ” style
An upgraded version of the stick-on arrow rest. It consists of a threaded rod, with a flat notch attached to one end. To install, the archer simply screws the rest into the factory mounting hole on the wall of the riser. Manufacturing materials include plastic, aluminium, or coated steel.
Twin prong
Two forward-facing metal prongs which hold the arrow. They can be fiddly to set up but perform well once adjusted. Twin prong rests are not recommended with finger release aids. The sideways motion exerted on the string will cause the arrow to rub on one side. This added friction will reduce accuracy and flight stability. For this reason, the use of a trigger release aid is recommended.
Drop away
One of the more popular arrow rests in recent years. The small cable protruding from the arrow rest is tied onto your bowstring. As the string is released at full draw, the arrow propels forward and the rest drops out of the way. This reduces friction on the arrow and prevents damage to your flights.
Cheaper models will raise the arrow rest as the archer draws back on the bowstring. More expensive models will have a small switch located on the side, this allows the rest to be manually clicked into the upwards position before drawing. These rests are recommended for use with compound bows.
Whisker biscuit
A donut-shaped rest that allows the arrow to pass through the centre. The arrow is held in place by the internal bristles, which creates a consistent arrow position for shooting. The downside to a whisker biscuit is that the internal bristles will eventually deteriorate and require replacement. Different-sized whisker biscuits are available for hunting and bow fishing. These rests are recommended for use with compound bows.
Roller
Designed for bow fishing, the plastic roller allows the heavy fibreglass arrow to roll forward upon string release. Take care when using these arrow rests. Any horizontal movement may cause the arrow to fall off the rest or disconnect from the string.
Release aids
Your method of holding and releasing the bowstring. Each release aid is suited to a particular style of bow. You can buck this trend if you wish, but you’ll leave yourself open to criticism and a lack of support if you choose poorly.
Finger tab
A flat piece of leather or plastic, with a loop on one end. The loop slides over the middle finger, and the tab is held in place against the fingers when force is applied to the string. They are cheap and easy to use, which makes them ideal for beginners. They are also widely used in traditional and bare-bow archery.
Gloves
A 3-finger glove with an attached wrist strap. As per the finger tab, the archer grips the string with a gloved hand to prevent an injury to their fingers. This is commonly used by archers with traditional or recurve bows.
Trigger release
Small trigger-activated pincers that are attached to a Velcro wrist strap. The archer connects the pincers to the “D-loop” on their compound bow, grips the release aid, draws back, and gently pulls the trigger to fire. Some archers swear by a trigger release aid, while others prefer a back tension model. I suggest that you try both and see which one works best for you.
Back tension (hinge) release
A small metal grip with finger grooves and a thumb trigger. Some models may be held with two, three, or four fingers. As the archer lines up the target, the archer rotates the release from their index finger to their ring finger. This movement causes the thumb to pull the trigger. If you suffer from target panic, this style of release aid will help. Back tension release aids are used in conjunction with a “D-loop”.
Step 4. Build your arrows
Proper arrow composition can make or break your archery game. For the sake of this article, we’ll assume that your local archery shop is going to build your arrows. They’ll measure your draw length and work out the finer details. The only thing you will need to do is provide them with your chosen materials.
Arrow shafts
The main spine of the arrow. The four primary shaft materials are wood, aluminium, carbon, and fibreglass. Each shart material will have different properties and purpose.
Wood
Cheap and durable, this makes wooden arrows an appealing purchase for the beginner archer. But there’s a downside; they are not as straight as carbon or aluminium shafts, they are prone to warping when exposed to water, and they cannot withstand the force exerted from a high-poundage compound bow. They’re great for kids and traditional archers. If you don’t fit into those two categories, try aluminium or carbon.
Aluminium
Cheap, consistent, and lightweight. But once bent, they are only fit for one purpose – taking up space in the garbage bin! You cannot straighten an aluminium shaft. Despite this, aluminium arrows are extremely popular with field archers.
Carbon
Durability, consistency, and low maintenance. These shafts return to their original shape when bent. However, during a hard impact, carbon arrows can sustain small cracks that aren’t visible without close inspection. Many archers “flex test” their shafts by applying pressure in each direction. If your arrow makes a cracking noise, has loose strands of carbon, or breaks – throw it out!
Don’t let the above information scare you away, these shafts are my number one pick for many forms of archery – hunting included.
Fibreglass
A heavy, flightless arrow that is used solely for bow fishing. These shafts are fitted with a plastic arrow slider and a rear bump stop. As the archer fires the bow, the slider (with the attached line) moves toward the rear of the arrow and hits the bump stop. The arrow continues forward and the line begins to spool out from the reel. Fibreglass arrows aren’t cheap, but unless you’re shooting around rocks, you are not going to damage them.
Arrowheads
The pointed tip of the arrow that penetrates the target. Depending upon your arrow type, the arrowhead will either be glued onto the tip of your shaft, or screwed into an internal aluminium thread. This is known as an arrow “insert”. The most common types of arrowheads are listed below.
Bullet points
A round bullet-shaped arrow tip. This streamlined design is built solely for target practice.
Field points
Similar to the bullet points, these arrowheads have a sharper, pointed tip. They are generally used for target practice, however, when combined with an additional spacer – such as a “cotton tail tumbler”, they may be used for hunting smaller game animals i.e. rabbits.
Blunts
As the name suggests, blunts have a flat tip which substitutes penetration for concussive power. These tips are designed for hunting small game.
Judo points
A flat-tipped arrow that is similar to a blunt. The key difference is the addition of spring-assisted “legs” which clasp onto any target they hit. Both judo points and field point spacers have the benefit of bouncing off the ground upon impact. This makes locating your arrows a much easier task.
Broadheads
These arrowheads are used for hunting larger game animals. They come in either a fixed blade or mechanical configuration. As the broadhead penetrates the animal, the external cutting edges severe arteries to increase the bleed rate. The best practice is to maintain the sharpness of your broadheads using a tool such as a Lansky deluxe sharpening kit. When using a sharpener, make sure that you match the angle of your sharpening stone to your broadhead blade angle.
Grapple point
Designed for bow fishing, grapple points consist of a field point tip and either 1,2, or 3 external barbs. These barbs may be fixed or mechanical in design, with the latter being more expensive. Some states have minimum design requirements. Your state fishing agency will supply this information.
Nocks
The slotted plastic tip at the rear of your arrow. This secures your arrow to the bowstring while aiming. Your arrow composition will dictate your choice of nocks.
Wood and fibreglass arrows will use a glue-on nock, aluminium, and carbon will use an insert version.
Flights, Fletches, Feathers and Vanes
The flight stabilization fins are located at the rear of your arrow. These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and configurations. Depending on the crowd you’re talking to, the above names may be thrown around interchangeably. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll split them into two categories; vanes and feathers.
Vanes
Made from plastic, these flights are both durable and waterproof. They range in size from 1″ – 5″ long, with the industry standard for hunting being the 2″ Blazer vane. Plastic vanes may be used on any shaft type except fibreglass, as no flights are required for bow fishing. Archers have two options for mounting vanes; glued parallel to the length of the arrow, or adjusted on a slight angle called a “Helicoil configuration”. Helicoil mounting your flights will cause the arrow to spin during the flight. This performs in a similar way to the rifling of a firearm barrel, resulting in increased arrow stability.
Colours are your own personal preference, however, I recommend choosing neon green and neon orange. These colours will glow in the dark when lit up with a black light torch, which makes finding your lost arrows easier at night.
NOTE: To ensure consistent flight characteristics, the use of a special jig is required to line up the plastic vanes on an arrow shaft.
Feathers
Feathers are used with wooden arrow shafts for a more traditional look and feel. Unlike plastic vanes, they can be manipulated back into a usable shape if squashed or damaged. When an arrow is launched from “the shelf” of a recurve or longbow, the fletching comes into contact with the bow. As feathers are supple, they flatten out during this contact. This reduces the disruption to the arrow’s flight path. Feathers are not waterproof and must be handled with care. The added moisture will also weigh down an arrow, which lowers your potential flight distance.
Step 5. Sus out the optional gear
While not required, each item below will assist in convenience, confidence, or performance.
Arrow wraps
A small piece of self-adhesive vinyl that is wrapped around the rear of the arrow. It provides an excellent surface for a plastic vane to be bonded to. Depending upon your chosen colour, it may also help you to locate lost arrows while out in the field.
Quivers and arrow tubes
Quivers and arrow tubes will protect your arrows during transportation and while out in the field. They are generally chosen based on an archer’s personal preference, however, restrictions may apply during competitions.
Arrow tube
A plastic tube that is used for storing arrows at home or while travelling in your vehicle. They can be picked up from Amazon or eBay for a few dollars each.
Back quiver/ hip quiver
Suited to target and field archery, these quivers allow quick and easy access to an arrow. Due to their size, they will often become tangled if used while hunting in heavily forested areas.
Bow mounted quiver
A lightweight quiver that attaches to the side of your bow. The more expensive versions have a quick-release function, which makes them ideal for use in a blind or tree stand. Bow-mounted quivers hold between 3 – 7 arrows.
Stabilizers
A weighted tube that is threaded onto the lower section of the riser. Adding a stabiliser will reduce vibration and as the name suggests, increase stability. Various weights and configurations are available. A stabilizer may be used with both recurve and compound bows.
Arm guards
A protective arm covering made from leather or plastic. The guard is attached to your forearm on the side that grips the bow (not the string arm). The aim of this piece of equipment is to prevent “string slap”, which occurs due to poor form or the hyper-extension of your elbow. These guards are used by novice and competition archers alike.
Wrist slings
An archer’s bow “grip” isn’t the clenching of the hand around the riser, instead, the bow is held in place by the forward pressure of the hand between your thumb and index finger. When the arrow is released from this grip, the bow will naturally fall. Without a wrist strap, the archer may panic and grab for the bow. This movement can disrupt arrow flight. A wrist sling allows the bow to pivot forward instead of dropping, resulting in a smooth “follow through”motion.
Step 6. Get the perfect fit
By this stage, you’ve no doubt started piecing together your dream bow package. Once you’ve got your shopping list, the next step is to head down to your local archery store. Don’t be shy. Discuss what you’re looking for, mention your price range, and ask to try out a few bows. Sometimes the bow you want just won’t feel right in your hands, so it pays to try a few different models. While you are there, get them to measure your draw length and draw weight.
Step 7. Speed up the learning process
Join a club
Clubs don’t just provide access to target range facilities, many run workshops and training sessions for their members. Participating in these activities is the perfect way to boost your knowledge, skills, and confidence in archery. The additional benefit of being around other archers is that they can observe your technique and help to correct it. Consider this feedback a learning opportunity, not a personal criticism.
Do you want to find a local archery club? Check out our Club Directory.
If you’re already a member of a club, tell them about our offer of free advertising, found here: Post an Ad – Club Directory
Practice
As the old saying goes, practice makes perfect. Start from a short distance i.e. 15-20 yards, and work your way back. At a minimum, you should be able to consistently group your arrows within a dinner plate-sized area at your preferred hunting distance.
Connect with others on social media
Social media groups can go one of two ways. They can provide inspiration and support for their members, or they can be a dumping ground for toxic behaviours. It’s best to join a few and see which ones work best for you.
Final thoughts
Buying your gear is just the beginning. If you want to excel in archery, you’ll need to make it through the initial learning stage. This means adjusting your expectations and understanding that you will probably miss – a lot! Proficiency in archery takes time and patience. If you want to check out some additional resources, try the Nock on YouTube Channel or the Nock On Archery Podcast.
One final piece of advice. DO NOT DRY FIRE YOUR BOW. Dry firing is the act of shooting a bow without an arrow connected to your string. This advice applies to all types of bows and is especially dangerous with a compound bow. We’ll explain why in a future article.
